Off Grid Solar System Design w/ Ryan Light
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This video goes through off grid system design including load analysis, charge controller sizing, inverter sizing, array and battery bank sizing. Ryan Light gives us the low down on how to figure out what you need for your off-grid needs.
Comments
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On inplix page are instructions if you want to learn how to build it yourself just take them
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this man is wrong
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After watching this I was totally confused about array sizing and input voltage for the Outback FM80 charge controller which I am also using. In the Q&A at the end Ryan seems to be saying that you have to configure your input voltage to fall between 145V and 150V, which is impossible to do for a variety of reasons. I contacted Outback tech support and the short answer is that you want your input voltage somewhere between 12V and 24V over your battery bank voltage, and under no circumstances should you ever allow it to go over 145V or you'll be buying a new controller.
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Wow, to me those numbers seem really high for 2 people in a tiny house! Our hole house including 3 very inefficient window air conditioners use 1900-2000kwh per month! Without factoring in heat and hot water (gas units). I would love to go off grid but its very cost prohibitive at this home. Maybe if my dream homestead comes along, perhaps.
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I don't think the minimum input voltage on the outback charge controller is 45A.
That is the max start-up and operating.
150 VDC absolute maximum coldest conditions
145 VDC start-up and operating maximum
The specs don't list the minimum VDC -
WHERE ARE SIZING HERE? CALCULATION ?
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+SolPowerPeople Where does the discharge rate of the batteries come into these calculations? I have seen some other calculations for battery sizing, in which they derate the battery capacity, according to the discharge rate. Does it make a difference if we use that formula instead? Or can we just ignore it and use the one in this video?
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@ Ryan Light. I have a question about the Safety Margin which you at mentioned at your presentation at 41:00. Doesn't it supposed to be at higher temperature the voltage decreases and current increases and the vice-versa. Because here in India we take 1.25 as safety margin when we design our modules in series to match the MPPT voltage of the inverter. Please clarify.
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All of the above examples, such as the remote control, digital clock functions and, in the case of adapters, no-load power, are switched off just by switching off at the plug. However, for some devices with built-in internal battery, such as the phone, the standby functions can be stopped by removing the battery instead.
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In fact, switching off at the plug is effective enough, there is no need to disconnect all devices from the plug. Some such devices offer remote controls and digital clock features to the user, while other devices, such as power adapters for disconnected electronic devices, consume power without offering any features (sometimes called no-load power).
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This only occurs because some devices claimed to be "switched off" on the electronic interface, but are in a different state from switching off from the plug, or disconnecting from the plug, which can solve the problem of standby power completely.
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In regards to phantom loads we are talking about standby power, also called vampire power, vampire draw, phantom load, or leaking electricity ("phantom load" and "leaking electricity" are defined technical terms with other meanings, adopted for this different purpose), refers to the electric power consumed by electronic and electrical appliances while they are switched off (but are designed to draw some power) or in a standby mode.
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by phantom load are you talking about virtual power ... i.e.. current and voltage not in phase?
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