IBM Model M keyboard ultimate roundup!
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The iconic (and iconically clicky) IBM Model M keyboard has been a fan favorite for three full decades now - an unbelievable run in computer years. I take a look at the major revisions in this video, and I also answer the question of whether it's still worth buying one in this second age of mechanical keyboards. Is the Model M still the One True Keyboard, and if so, which one should you get? Some helpful links mentioned in the video: All of the different model numbers and minor variants of the "Enhanced Keyboard": https://deskthority.net/wiki/IBM_Enhanced_Keyboard The screw, nut and bolt mod featured in the video: https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/ibm-model-m-screw-nut-and-bolt-mod-t9169.html Another site with slightly different instructions: http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Modifications:IBM_Model_M:Nut_and_Bolt_Mod Phosphor Glow will bolt mod your keyboard for you: http://phosphorglow.net/ Keep in mind that everyone does the screw/bolt mod a slightly different way. There's not one way to do it. The current selection of pre-modded Model M's on Ebay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5574713578&campid=5337969284&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_odkw%3Dibm%2Bmodel%2Bm%2Bmodded%26_osacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0%26_nkw%3Dibm%2Bmodel%2Bm%2Bmodded%26_sacat%3D0 Where to get the screws, nuts, and bolts in my video: https://www.mcmaster.com/ Part #'s: Screws for screw mod: 91099A107 (I chose these on purpose for their undercut flat head) Screws for bolt mod: 92005A029 Nuts for bolt mod: 90591A111 You can also get the required 5.5mm long socket there: 7195A38 Unicomp if you just want a new Model M, but I can't vouch for these yet, and my understanding is that the quality isn't quite the same (then again, some say the same about the blue logo Lexmarks): http://www.unicomp.com IBM PC image attribution: Rama & Musée Bolo (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:IMB_PC-IMG_7271.jpg)
Comments
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The blue lable one in this video is not made by Lexmark but IBM UK...
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Great video! This is one of the best Model M roundups I have seen, keep up the good work! I have 2 IBM Model M’s, one is a 1992 black label and the other is a 1996 blue label. The Blue label is actually NOT made by Lexmark but by IBM in Scotland. IBM still made Model M’s well into 1997. I disagree with your view that there ‘aren’t any real differences between years and models’. My black label Model M has a much more consistent key feel than my blue label and the stabilisers feel a lot better. But I feel that the blue label has a better build quality over the black label. A lot of rivets have gotten loose on the black label but none have shown any signs of wear on the blue label. It feels a lot sturdier and inconsistent, if that makes any sense. One day I would like to compare them to Lexmark branded and Unicomp models.
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The only thing I really got hung up over was changeable keycaps and being able to remove the cable. I also got a blue logo one made in 91 with detachable cable and not a single rivet being broken. I wonder if they change the plastic or if it will break in a few years :c
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I suppose they're great to type on, but I remember them being hell to listen to when someone else is typing. A friend revivified his old Model M last year, and it convinced me I wanted none of that. However, I've been using a clicky MX blue knock-off, and it's pretty nice. Looking at Alps (matias) switches as something that combines the tactility of buckling spring without so much noise.
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Excellent video. Typing this comment on a "compact" Model M2 and I have to say nothing compares to the smooth actuation feel of a well looked after buckling spring switch. I should note that I am the original owner of this keyboard and have always looked after it, so buyer beware if you are looking for a used one.
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The typing feel of the model F is vastly different to that of the model M. The Model F used captive buckling springs while the M uses a buckling spring over membrane switch system. It is fact that the Model F was both higher build quality as well as (according to the overwhelmingly vast, vast majority) providing a better typing feel, crisper, more refined. Even if both would have used the exact same switch mechanism, things like construction, materials, back-plates would still effect the feel of the keyboard. There is really no reason to prefer a model M over a F, except for layout., which honestly just takes some getting used to.
Cherrys are junk, and always were, in both quality as well as tactility and sound. I prefer most rubber domes over cherry switches. Also not all rubber dome designs are cheap or bad, take Topre for example, slider over rubber dome over conical spring over captive PCB. I'm typing on a HHKB right now. Topre keyboards are widely regarded to be amongst the best typing keyboards ever made, I can only agree with that. I actually very much prefer a Topre board over a Model M, you should try Topre sometime, they are a bit costly tho. Getting a used, NIB one on ebay is always an option.
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